Wednesday dawns grey and dreary with light rain as we grab our umbrellas and stop at Linlithgow Palace which sits on a big hill overlooking the Linlithgow Loch. Built and developed over the 15th and 16th centuries by successive Stewart kings of Scotland, it was the birthplace of Mary Queen of Scots. Sadly, the Palace was destroyed by The Duke of Cumberland's army by burning in January 1746 and is now considered a ruin. The Palace is said to be haunted by the spectre of Mary of Guise, mother to Mary, Queen of Scots. I didn’t see any ghosts but I did see the place where some of the Wentworth Prison scenes were filmed for Outlander.
Easily recognizable is the entrance to the palace where scenes of Claire and Murtagh were seen entering and exiting. Isn’t this where she threw up? I think I might be remembering correctly. Anyway, other scenes were filmed here such as Claire traversing the narrow passageways and the twisty turny staircases of Wentworth to reach Jamie. The cattle scene to save Jamie was not filmed here! The palace is managed by Historic Environment Scotland and I imagine they would not have cared for that one bit!
A complete wonder of a fountain in the courtyard is the centerpiece of the Palace and I took many photos of it from different angles. Each time I looked at it I found something new to see – a mermaid, crown, naked boys, a unicorn, a stag, men and women – it is fabulous! I found this information about it on the internet:
“Built by James V in 1538, this ornate fountain graces the courtyard at Linlithgow Palace. Standing over 16 feet high and designed to reflect the supreme power of the king, it was probably fed by an underground water supply which was piped up to the carved crown at the top. Water fell from the crown – suggesting the king’s benevolence – into tiered bowls and out through rows of spouts shaped like mythical beasts and human heads. One of them is said to represent James V disguised as a peasant or ‘gaberlunzie’. When Bonnie Prince Charlie visited Linlithgow in 1745, the fountain was made to flow with wine. This was probably not the first time it had happened – another source suggests James V had the same idea, on his marriage to Mary of Guise. In 2007 the fountain was restored by Historic Scotland, so that water can now flow through it again, although it is not kept running because of the risk of erosion.”
They really built magnificent structures in those days! Huge tall stone walls that encompassed a chapel, vaulted cellars, many apartments, towers and winding staircases, a great hall, prison, guard hall, and a court kitchen with the obligatory large fireplace to cook in and warm the structure. We wandered and wandered a good long time here soaking in all the history before heading just next door to St. Michael’s Catholic Church built in the 1500's. The rain has stopped and we are now enjoying a cool, but dry day.
St. Michaels boasts arched ceilings and massive stone columns. As the years have progressed, the church has undergone many changes including the addition of colorful stained glass windows. Startling to me was the aluminum crown that was added in 1964. It doesn’t seem to fit the rest of the architecture in my mind, but a few hundred years from now people will probably marvel at it.
A lovely and simple parish graveyard overlooking the loch is adjacent to it and I walked amongst its history for a bit enjoying the beautiful mosses and lichens that grow so abundantly here on the ancient stone monuments, walls, and walkways.
After wandering around the town of Linlithgow doing some window shopping and picture taking at the town fountain we drove next to Callendar House in Falkirk. The core of the building is a 14th-century tower house and has been added onto many times over the centuries. I read later that they give guided tours with costumed guides that fill you in on tons of information but darn, they were not doing that today so we wandered about on our own eager to get to the kitchen.
Why the kitchen you ask? Because here is where the filmed one of the most memorable Outlander scenes. In the “Vengeance is Mine” episode Murtagh decapitates the English Duke of Sandringham. Presenting the head, he announces to Mary and Claire “I kept my word. I lay my vengeance at your feet”. One of the truly great scenes of Season 2 in my opinion! I remember when I saw that scene for the first time I gasped out loud! And here we are…in the very same kitchen!
We arrived at the beautiful Ednam House Hotel in the Scottish Borders and are instantly enchanted with the location on the banks of the River Tweed. Flowers are in abundance and the charming hotel, built in 1761, will be our home for the next two nights. Ednam House is where Chris and Christies wedding will take place and we are excited for tomorrow! We make our way up staircases and down long hallways to our room and settle in thinking about supper.
Soon it was time to head back to the hotel and get some rest! But our excitement of the day was not over yet! As we walked the grounds of the garden area who do we spy??? It’s Christie! I am so excited to see her again and she screamed when she saw me and squealed and jumped up and down in greeting! She and her maids were staying in the orangery on the grounds and we were lucky enough to have a few private moments with her tonight too after hugs all around and greetings from everyone. Such a special couple and I am blessed to be here in Scotland to be with them on their special day. I feel like a tiny part of their lives as I was there almost at their meeting, and then again during their courtship and falling in love stage, and soon….their wedding! Wow!! How lucky I am and I really look forward to tomorrow!
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